After last season’s embroidered bullet holes, I was very anxious to see what Damir Doma would bring for his fall/winter collection. There were such strong points in the spring/summer line, especially in his use of fabrics and textures, that I was curious as to how he might continue that theme. At the same time, I didn’t expect to see another set with the same roughness to it as we saw in the spring line. Damir didn’t strike me as the type person who would be seasonally inappropriate and the elements that gave the spring line its edge were not likely to translate well to fall/winter.

Not only was I not disappointed by what I saw this morning, I was more thrilled than ever with the Damir Doma label. Starting with a beautiful, full-length sweater coat, Doma gives us a collection of clothes that is on one hand extremely wearable, totally approachable, and largely appropriate for the season, and at the same time fresh, innovative, clean, and even a little feminine in a couple of places. While there are the expected rounded shoulders and large, open silhouettes to many of the styles, there are also some that are very fitted and highly tailored, something we don’t necessarily expect from Doma.

Among the things that shine in this collection, in addition to the sweaters that should sell out almost the instant they hit stores, are the coats. Mohair coats, actually. Not only are they wonderfully constructed, my favorite uses a unique dying system that gives the coat a color gradient from black to grey to red/brown and back. The visual effect is quite stunning and different. Overcoats are generally seen as more utilitarian objects, but Damir has done a great job of giving this one some life and emotion.

Damir’s usual play of textures in fabrics runs throughout the collection, but what is especially well done are pieces that mix flannel with sheer chiffon. Now, seeing that description on paper doesn’t initially seem to be a very workable combination. Yet, as Doma applies it, the reality is surprisingly attractive and dramatic in ways one might not have suspected. There’s motion in these pieces that one wouldn’t have expected and the visual result is magical.

A couple of shining moments come toward the end of the collection, first as Damir demonstrates some incredible talent with the pleats in a couple of skirts, and then with some totally unexpected cut outs in his final dresses. Each of these come off quite strongly and neither were present in the spring collection.

I continue to be very impressed with Damir Doma and while I do wish the label were more aggressive on the digital front it continues to be one of those collections I look forward to seeing each season. This is a set that truly deserves a place in your wardrobe.

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