Yang Li is a relative newcomer to the Paris fashion scene and his optimism and enthusiasm are still visibly bubbling over not only in his personality but in his clothes as well. Last season Li hit the runway with a very “street” influenced collection and he continues that to some degree in his fall/winter line. At the same time, however, he grows a little more esoteric as he makes a point of emphasizing that this season is all about dreamers.

What one notices first about this collection, though, is the coats that come down the runway first. These are highly refined and especially well tailored pieces that, in a couple of instances, are so very well styled that at first glance they might be mistaken as tops in a separates rather than outerwear. Done in blue and tan, these are some of the most elegant coats we’ve seen this season. If this is “street” it is certainly one in a higher rent neighborhood than we might expect.

Leather does play a dominate role in those collection, giving at least the inference of a tough edge to the clothes. Yet, Li’s tailoring is, once again, to very well done, so tightly stitched, that the pieces look and feel much more elegant than what one might pick up at lower-end stores at the local mall. Sure, cut outs at the knee reference the torn jeans look a bit, but there are no loose or frayed edges here. Li’s treatment is so well finished that there’s no mistake these are carefully constructed pieces where every little cut and trim is intentional.

Broad-rimmed fedoras, rolled up cuffs on trousers, and a white on black t-shirt proclaiming “DREAMERS” are cute little touches that will capture the attention of younger audiences, and I fully expect to see those t-shirts all over the place. At the same time, though, the last two black gowns are perfect examples of absolute elegance. These could very well be text book examples of how a gown should be constructed. Li’s attention not only to detail, but very precise stitching make these dresses wonders to behold.

Those who really want to be on fashion’s cutting edge do well to pay attention to Yang Li. Something tells me it won’t be long before this will be as much a sought-after label as any of the “big” names showing later this week. With precision and optimism like this, I don’t see how he can miss.

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