PFW: Rochas S/S 2017

Rochas S/S 17
Rochas Spring/Summer 2017.Photo credit: Yannis Vlamos

If one were to think of their wardrobe as a spring garden, it would look like this Rochas spring/summer collection. Creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua chose some of the brightest, most vibrant colors he could find and then brought them all together in a garden of tulle, velvet, jacquard, and brocades. He even put hand-painted flowers on some of them, re-emphasizing the whole garden metaphor. Rochas doesn’t have a house fragrance but if it did the smell would be as fresh as these clothes look.

Dell’Acqua’s silhouette is actually rather simple: soft top, tight waist, and full skirt of contrasting material. The look hints at a vintage era, but the way Dell’Acqua spins it they never feel all that dated. There are hints of sheer here and there, plunging necklines, and a tendency to play with sleeves that keep everything looking modern and fresh.

Other than the painted flowers and a few polka dots, we really don’t see any patterns in this collection. He plays beautifully with solid colors, sometimes mixing and matching them in ways contrary to how we were taught to use the color wheel in school.  Theoretically, some of these blends aren’t supposed to work, yet they do and they look wonderful doing so.  Dell’Acqua’s sense of draping plays strongly in these looks and, again, are what will keep people from asking if you picked up the dress at a vintage shop.

Do I really like the sweater tucked into the skirt, or the other sweater under the silk slip dress or the top that looks like it was made for the label’s bowling team? Not especially, but those are styling choices, not design flaws. I think most women are going to use their own sensibilities in how they put the pieces together. Granted, there aren’t a lot of pieces here, barely over 30 looks, and your local store is likely to only carry a handful. Still, there are enough choices to put together stunning ensembles with no worries.

Sitting here on a rainy afternoon, seeing colors this bright was a wonderful sight. We’ve not seen a tremendous amount of color all season, which is surprising since, for the most part, we’re supposed to be looking at Spring/Summer wear. Dell’Acqua has dodged the trends (for the most part) and delivered a collection that is lovely, sophisticated, and as charming as a spring garden. Don’t be surprised if wearing these looks attracts bees.

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