PFW: Miu Miu S/S 2017

Miu Miu S/S 17
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2017. Photo credit: Monica Fuedi

This is it, folks, the last fashion show of the season, at least as far as we’re concerned. There are some other minor shows scattered across the day, but the rush for the airport has already started. Paris definitely held more interest than Milan, but, on the whole, there were still more disappointments than there were joys. This has been a challenging season for everyone and fashion’s two most traditional hubs, Paris and Milan, seem to have suffered the most. Attendance was down, venues were smaller, and collections, in general, felt pared back. Combine that with the already tense atmosphere and a high-profile robbery and one can see why foreign editors and buyers were more anxious to leave than usual.

Miuccia Prada ends this season with an interesting 70s theme for her Juniors line. For those of you just joining us, Miu Miu is the Prada label for women 21 years old and younger. The silhouettes are designed to fit younger women’s developing bodies and, as such, tend to go light on the sensuality while keeping the looks attractive. As such, it was perfectly acceptable that Ms. Prada would go with a spring/summer line that seems largely devoted to very modest, high waisted swimwear.

And flowery swim caps. Lots and lots and lots of swim caps.

To say that there’s a little bit of kitsch to this collection would be an understatement. Most seasons we wouldn’t see cheap-looking flip-flops with plastic flowers on top. Yet, they are in this collection. The 70s “mod” shapes and stripes and colors were also a bit over-the-top, though Ms. Prada is known for going all in on a theme such as this. All the muted pastels, the pea-soup green and dark mustard yellow and deep burnt orange all make an appearance, even though red is the primary color through the collection.

While there is a lot of swimwear in this collection, there are a lot of other pieces that are best suited for those strolls away from the beach. To some extent, this is where the nostalgia really kicks in. More than once through the collection, I had the thought, “My mother would have really liked that dress.” The geometric patterns and floral designs are spot-on for trends that were popular in the early 1970s. The only thing missing were the bouffant hair styles. Of course, that style wouldn’t have gone well with the swim caps, would it? It’s also worth noticing that, while she might have liked the dresses, there’s no way Mother would have worn such cheap-looking flip-flops or sandals.

This is the kind of Juniors line that parents like, though the price tag might be a bit high. Everything is modest and the skirt fashioned like a wrap-around towel is rather cute. Even the fluffy housecoats are probably going to meet with parental approval. What matters, though, is whether young women like the line. Just as Prada’s main line has struggled this year, Miu Miu has yet to get close to sale projections. Hopefully, the conservative nature of the line won’t keep its target audience out of stores.

As if there were ever a 17-year-old who didn’t like shopping.

So ends another month of fashion weeks. I know we didn’t cover everything, but hopefully, we reviewed the labels that matter the most. Now might be a good time to go back and catch up on any that you missed.

Me? I’m overdue for a very long nap. Tomorrow. See you next season!

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