PFW: Elie Saab S/S 2017

Elie Saab S/S 17
Elie Saab spring/summer 2017. Photo credit: Guillame Roujas

Elie Saab has disco fever. His spring/summer collection might have been named “Dancing On Stardust,” but let’s be very clear from the outset that this is a disco collection front to back. From the pink glitter on the floor to the 1970s silhouettes and the solid gold soundtrack, models such as Karli Kloss struggled to not dance down the runway. This is a high-energy collection ready for a fun night out.

Saab starts the collection by covering everything in stars against a black background. Silhouettes are long, flowing, and very lightweight. A few of the opening looks even come with nice disco hero capes for extra flair. With a collection so heavily invested in the disco era, they just might convince the two remaining Gibb brothers to tour again.

While the entire collection has a feel-good aesthetic going, there are a few things that stand out. One is that there are a lot of dangerously short miniskirts in this collection. Those of you with long legs understand the severity of the challenge. One has to walk a certain way if one wants to remain modest while wearing a few of these skirts. All the models with reason to be concerned were wearing shorts under the skirts. You might be advised to do the same.

Anther true-to-the-70s element is the deep cleavage-revealing plunge on many of the tops. This works well when the silhouette is well fitted and body hugging. However, it doesn’t take a lot of air to risk slippage. Gigi Hadid’s final look seemed to have some challenges as she frequently needed to adjust the dress to avoid a malfunction.  Apparently, the double-sided tape didn’t stick.

Glittery ball caps are matched with several of the pieces, especially the gowns. As spirited as the look is, something tells me we’ll more often see the caps paired with something more casual when they appear in the real world.

Ball caps weren’t the only thing shimmering, though. Elie didn’t hold back on the sequins or metallics in this collection. Gowns were dripping in everything that sparkles and even rompers and separates were blinged out enough to create some photography challenges.

Okay, so we’ve seen plenty of the 70s and disco looks. And yes, this is wildly different from the standard Elie Saab collection. Those who would complain are well-founded in their disappointment. At the same time, however, in a season where so much of what we have seen is devoid of any real excitement or emotion, seeing this star-spangled collection coming down the runway was a huge relief. So much so, that it’s going to stand out prominently on the department store racks.

Everyone had fun with this collection, which was the point. Models were dancing backstage and I’m guessing the afterparty is off the hook. Elie Saab has brought a fun set of clothes to next spring. Everybody dance now!

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