LFW: Peter Pilotto S/S 2017

Peter Pilotto S/S 17
Peter Pilotto Spring/Summer 2017. Photo credit: Yannis Vlamos

On a day that has been super creative to this point, one might think it was about time we hit a dud. After all, they can’t all be wonderful and super-creative, can they? Apparently, at least for today, they can.  Peter Pilotto just continued the trend with an immensely colorful  collection for spring/summer that has an emphasis on being easy to wear and keeping one cool.

One of the interesting things we see in this collection is Pilotto’s decision to layer trending elements. Sure, he has off-the-shoulder dresses and crop tops and exposed bras and halter tops and really cute gold metallic lace. Any one of those things would have been just fine on its own. What he does, though, is layer them, so there’s a crop top under a sun dress and embroidered linen over lace and crochet work over gingham checks. Most of the time these combinations work extremely well. There were a few moments, though, where it felt more like a contest where one is told to blindly choose a couple of fabrics  and find a way to make them work.

There is also an incredible amount of detail work on almost every piece that came down the runway. We see embroidery everywhere, sometimes with thread, sometimes with beads, and sometimes with sequins. Hand stitching is evident in several places as well. For all the effort Pilotto has put into making the pieces look simple, close inspection reveals that they really are rather complicated. Don’t expect any of these to be inexpensive pieces. This much handwork is inevitably expensive.

Pilotto showed his collection at the label’s headquarters which has its benefits, especially if one is running critically close in getting samples finished on time. There was some sense of that level of anxiety, but at the same time, there was a comfort at being in his own space. The downside is that it forced a very narrow runway, ala J. W. Anderson. That became a bit of a disadvantage when sent out the dresses and ensembles with extremely full and flowing skirts. I’m pretty sure they would catch air and billow nicely given the opportunity, but in such tight quarters it was difficult to tell.

So many bright colors, such a high level of detail, and prints that looked as though they’d been hand-painted all come together to create a bright and vivid collection. These clothes just look like summer fun any way you want to put them together. Sundays in London are unquestionably one of the best days of the entire season.

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