LFW: Mary Katrantzou S/S 2017

Mary Katrantzou S/S 2017
Mary Katrantzou Spring/Summer 2017. Photo credit: Kim Weston Arnold

For a moment this morning I thought I was having a flashback to the Gareth Pugh show yesterday. Except that this time around the colors were different; there were more of them, and the fabrics were totally contemporary. Oh wait, this is no flashback, this is Mary Katrantzou. The fact that she, too, went with a sunburst motif is purely coincidental. We think.

Actually, Mary is taking a very different approach to the sunburst. Born in Athens, Katrantzou is applying her sense of artistry and fabric creation to ancient Greek mythology. As a result, not only do we see the sunburst featured prominently throughout the collection, we also see a number of other Greek motifs represented. This is Katrantzou reflecting not only on her heritage but on her rise in the fashion world.

Katrantzou’s popularity has skyrocketed the past couple of years as her taste for prints and 3D structures in her clothing have become highly valued. With this collection, she brings back some of the print styles and structures that were popular in her early collections and mixes them with the fabrics and prints that are selling so very well today. The collection is bright, engaging, and full of motion.

One of the things one notices with Katrantzou’s styles is that each ensemble creates a complete image. As such, these are not necessarily pieces one can mix and match with each other. Each top has a specific bottom that completes it. Put the wrong pieces together and the picture is off-kilter. One has to be careful how they purchase from this collection. However, you almost certainly want to purchase from this collection.

Adventurous silhouettes have never been Katrantzou’s strong point. The collection of dress styles and suits doesn’t vary a great deal. The shorter dresses, which aren’ t all that short, are perfectly appropriate for daywear. The longer dresses, with their extended glory, are obviously intended for more formal occasions.  What she does with each, though, is very exciting. The clear plastic squares on the short skirts make a unique sound as they pass. The architectural construction of the suits are unlike anything else in your closet. Embroidery along the sleeves of the gowns is one of the most impressive things you’ll see all season.

These are some incredibly bright and amazingly active pieces. One is definitely going to attract attention when wearing any of them, which might be a consideration when making a purchase. If  you’re wanting to hide in the background you probably want to shop a different designer.  If you want clothes that are exciting examples of print and texture, though, you have to have something from this collection. There is nothing else that even comes close.

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