London seems very happy to welcome Lucas Nascimento back after he spent the last three seasons showing at Rio Fashion Week in his native Brazil. Lucas graduated from London College of Fashion in 2008 and his first collections were shown here. What he brings back to London is a much more mature, refined, and wearable collection than we saw previously.

Lucas has this thing for geometric patterns, liking to explore the juxtaposition of various shapes. Previously, that has taken him toward some very large, sometimes stiff and boxy pieces that failed to translate well. At first glance, it appeared that he might be continuing that trend, but what we actually saw in the first pieces was a beautiful green/black overcoat draped over a knit separate set of the same design. He then moves immediately to an ensemble that includes green leather pants, a grey turtleneck and a lime green jacket. This is easily the most feminine and most fitted collection we’ve seen from Lucas.

Nascimento uses a lot of leather in this collection, which is also a new direction for him. Previously, he has paid extra careful care to the knits that he uses, and where they are present that diligent attention to detail is still very present. Leather, though, provides him with a more clean, almost slick, clean surface. Many of his leather looks are monochrome, though quite wonderfully to his credit, Lucas avoided doing any of them in black. Instead, we see green, blue, grey, mustard yellow, and purple. What really stands out are above the knee boots, largely unadorned, but very dramatic when paired with a short dress and with one of the most interesting heel shapes I’ve seen. I watched to see if any models slipped, since that seems to be an issue today, but none did.

We also see very creative use of broad-ribbed knits in a number of looks. This is where extreme attention to detail pays off. Nascimento uses the knits in such a way that, from a slight distance, it initially appeared as though the fabric were pleated from shoulder to ankle. Comfort and style become an absolute work of art in a dress that flows gently from a blue/grey stripe to solid blue.

Lucas really shows dramatic progress in how he blends color through his knitwear, pulling off some designs that are absolutely astonishing, such as is seen in the mix of blue, rust, and violet in the sparkling finale piece. He his pulling off some looking tricks that, while they may appear simple, are actually extremely difficult to achieve.

Lucas Nascimento is not a name that is especially well known yet, but with collections like this one can fully expect that status to change very, very quickly.

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