Felder Felder S/S 2016
Felder Felder S/S 2016

Welcome to London Fashion Week, all you bleary-eyed fashion travelers! So help me, that trip from JFK to Heathrow gets longer every season. At least the start times were pushed back a bit, which helped, but I’m still seeing a lot of blood-shot eyes in the audience and I’m betting that tonight’s parties will be limited to locals. There’s just no way to make this transition easy.

One of the things that helps, though, is that the London schedule doesn’t change a whole lot from season to season, making it easier to know where one is going to have to be when. This morning, the British twins Daniela and Annette Felder once again took over the Free Masons  Hall for their seasonal take on all things sexy and cheeky and borderline inappropriate. It’s going to be very interesting watching these two as they grow older. They very much design for themselves and their friends. Several of their models even look like they could be family with the long blonde hair and Germanic body tones. So, while they’re young and sexy now, one has to wonder where they’ll go in the future. This could get very interesting.

Today, they gave us a collection that was surprisingly more modest and bright than all the black lace we saw on the last trip. Their design mantra seemed to fall more along the line of shimmery, short, sheer, and sexy with matching stilettos. Seriously, those shoes make have to be registered as weapons in some places. We’ve seen so many takes on athletic footwear and mules that actually seeing models attempting to balance themselves on extremely narrow and high stiletto heels was something of a novelty.

The girls seemed to have difficulty choosing a fabric this season. They started with a blue/green mermaid metallic, and then wandered through some floral  and a pink flamingo print before finally ending on white. Overall, there are a lot of pink/red tones to the collection, but the prints are so busy that it’s not like looking at a bottle of antacid for twenty minutes.

Silhouettes didn’t really change a lot from previous seasons, though there were fewer one piece outfits this season. Their skirts honest cannot get any shorter and still be legal. They’re still big on crop tops and while their mini’s tend to fall low on the waist, their pants and shorts tend to run very high. They still like the bra-showing-beneath-the-shirt thing and went for the bare shoulder trend we’ve seen in New York all week. In some ways, this is almost a tame collection for them.

Diversity on the runway never has been strong on the London runways, and in the twin’s case they have a short collection of only 32 pieces and use their models on more than one look. Of those 32, though, only seven were worn by non-caucasian models. Not exactly a stellar way to get things started. We’ll give them a three on a scale of ten, but until the issue starts getting more attention over here I don’t really expect any improvement.

So, we’ve started London Fashion Week on a surprisingly more conservative tone. We’ll see if that holds over the next five days. This could get interesting.

photo credit: Gio Staiano


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