Emilio de la Morena does a lot of thinking before he starts designing. He thinks about structure, about what not only looks good but communicates a strong message. Emilio wants his clothes to empower women, to boost their self esteem, to demonstrate how strong they are. So what does he bring us for spring/summer 2015? One of the softest collections I think I’ve ever seen from him.

Mind you, the structure is still there. This is just as intelligent a collection as ever. However, instead of hard lines and rigid panels, we see more draping and attention to how fabric plays along carefully planned curves. Instead of rigid materials defining the shape, Emilio allows the fabric to follow more natural lines. At times, the dresses are so very silky and smooth that one might almost mistake them for lingerie.

de la Morena has also been careful in constructing silhouettes that layer well, with panels of sateen falling across shimmering  metallic and long lines that help fabric avoid gathers in unsightly places. There are a number of strapless pieces in the collection and even more spaghetti straps than what we typically expect from the Spaniard.

Colors play all over the field of pastels, with plenty of metallic variations tossed in among the silks. a bright slip dress with an inverted V hem is split down the middle, bright red on the right side, electric pink on the left. There’s a rainbow metallic, touches of silver and gold, and the requisite black. Nothing really stands out or dominates in any way. If anything, many of the colors feel muted, quiet, and peaceful.

While this is an incredibly attractive collection, and one that has very adult styling to it, one doesn’t get the impression that it necessarily is standing up and drawing attention to itself, even when it is being a bit glittery.The seductive qualities of Emilio’s work are soft. These are clothes for women who know what they want and are designed to help them get it.

Photo credit:Alessandro Garofalo

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